Damaged boards

We check every board and if loose, fix them in position. We remove old tacks and nails – and hammer protruding nails flat.

If any boards or blocks are damaged beyond repair, we will replace them. We use reclaimed timber – wherever possible, of the same age and quality.

Gap filling

A gap-filled floor has an even look – pleasing to the eye but not always necessary. Filling gaps stops draughts and prevents the build up of dust. As the floor is also tightened, timber movement is minimized.

Traditional methods of gap filling include:

* Resin – mostly used floors with lots of fine gaps, such as parquet and mosaic. Dust from the floor is mixed with a resin and applied to the gaps with a filling knife.

* wooden strips – solid fillets of reclaimed pine and other timbers are glued and forced into the gaps, being chiseled back before sanding flat.

Changing the colour?

Clear natural stains enhance the wood grain. Coloured stains enrich a floor – they give colour and depth to the wood (eg a Servicesdarker pine floor)

Floors with coloured varnishes tend to lose their colour when the surface is damaged. Staining and varnishing is far better performed in two distinct stages. The colour is easier to control and remains unaffected as the sealant wears away.

The floor can be painted – or use a coloured wax for a quick new look to match your home interior. This is a good choice for floors with dull washed colours. Lime wax, for example, gives a soft tinting effect on the visible wood grain.

Traditional stains are based on oils and solvents. Modern water-based stains are safe and odour-free – and match them for quality. They come in all the traditional wood colours through to contemporary pigmenting: eg white, red, blue or even pink!

For a specific or unusual colour, just ask us. We can mix and match, as when we were challenged with the colour of a floor in an ancient castle. The results justified the effort – of mixing 75 different pigments!


Today’s market has a bewildering variety of traditional and modern stains and sealers. Whether natural or artificial, wax or lacquer, we’ll demonstrate their qualities – to help you make your choice for the floor you want.

Sealants determine the durability of your new floor and how long it retains its new look.

Lacquers are more durable and easier to maintain than oil sealants: typically used for areas of mid to heavy traffic.

Modern lacquers no longer have the old ‘plastic’ look of traditional varnish. Their attractive silky sheen comes in a matt, satin or high gloss finish.

For general use, in mid to high traffic areas, a polyurethane lacquer is highly resistant to wear. The underlying floor may become discoloured.

Lacquer is not a natural material, so can restrict the breathability of your wooden floor. For areas with lighter usage, use a part polyurethane/part acrylic floor varnish. This will not yellow or darken the wood in any way.

Lacquers require three applications – allowing 24 hours to dry for full strength sealing.

We will give you a practical comparison of recommended sealants during your free assessment.


The traditional and natural choice – wax is the safest floor finish for your family, home, business and the environment.

Your floor will breathe – under a soft and mellow finish.

Wax finishes require two applications.

Hard Wax Oil

A popular natural product based on waxes and vegetable oils. It provides a good balance between natural oil and lacquer – the natural look combined with improved durability.

It is micro-porous and does not crack, flake, peel or blister. It is good for use in areas of high humidity, as it is less prone to dry out than natural oil.

Like natural oil, it emphasises the natural grain of the wood – and brings out its inherent colour. For continual protection, apply more coats or a thinned down ‘revive coat’.

Hard wax is useful in difficult environments. A house in Twickenham near an underground river had a parquet floor. Although damp, the blocks were still adhering well.

After sanding, a water-based finish couldn’t cope: going white and peeling off within two days.

So we used an oil based stain – and finished with three coats of Osmo hard wax. This adhered to the surface and blocked the rising moisture.

The grateful owners were therefore spared the trauma of replacing their entire floor – and saved themselves a hefty bill.


Natural Oil

Oil combines the traditional natural look of a wooden floor with ease of maintenance. It is water-repellent as well resistant to scuffs and abrasions.

Natural oil does tend to dry out in humid conditions, but the treated floor can easily be maintained. Extra coats of oil will top-up the finish and cover minor damage.

Oil coats come in matt or satin finishes – and can take up to 24 hrs to dry.

Ask us for a comparison of the properties of natural oils – along with the various other sealants.

Contact us for your free assessment and quote

Other Services

Fire hearths

That old concrete fire hearth will be history. Let us remove it and fill in the gap with matching flooring.

Wooden decking

This garden feature is very vulnerable to damage from sun, frost and rain. Careful sanding can restore the most battered surface. The whole top layer of old, weakened wood fibres is removed. Revealed just beneath the surface.. ‘like-new’ fibres. Stain or decking oil then completes the new finish.

Stair stripping

Stairs are often covered in carpets or layers of old paint for generations. Stripping is a highly skilled and painstaking task, but the hard work justifies the results.

The entire tread and risers are stripped, sanded and coated in a clear natural or stained finish. For a special effect, the riser can be painted white – leaving the tread in a clear or stained sealant.

Contact us today for a free assessment and quote